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Top ten tips for a quick sale
Costs of moving home
Tips
for self building and renovators
Estimated cost of renovating an empty
house
The UK’s top fifty house names
A period home of your dreams
Chancel repair liability
What you can and can't do with listed
buildings
Twenty things you can do without planning
permission
Asbestos in the home - what you need to know
Top ten tips for a quick sale
Catch
up with deferred maintenance
Oil door hinges, stop squeaky floorboards with talcum powder, replace
washers on dripping taps and missing hooks on the curtains. Fix all those
things you never got around to doing. First Impressions count.
Drive-by desirability
House buyers almost always drive by before they pick the houses they wish to
view. Make yours stand out by painting the door a bright colour, planting
window boxes or tubs of colourful flowers and make sure the house number is
clearly visible from the road.
The
big clear out
Clutter can be distracting to people trying to visualise living in your
home. Buy a roll of bin liners. Check out your local charity shops. Pack
your knick-knacks in boxes and seal down the lids and stack them (in the
garage or a storage centre and NOT the spare room) ready for the day you
move.
Good views
Clean the windowpanes and woodwork with a good household detergent. This
improves the look of the room and lets in natural daylight.
Neat
window dressings
Dry or steam-cleaning the curtains really does lift the room and removes all
those built-up odours. Remove those nets and replace them with muslin drapes
or blinds. They are les fussy and old fashioned and if you replace curtains
with blinds it opens up the room.
Welcome in
Make sure you have replaced the bulbs in the light fitting in the hall. Keep
it clean, light and clutter free. Adding a mirror can make a dark hall seem
much lighter and bigger. Don’t paint it a dark colour.
Ceilings
Dust cobwebs. Don’t forget to look up, your viewers will. Dust or vacuum
those cobwebs away, especially around light fittings. Ceilings tend to be a
recurring problem when properties are re-styled for sale. If your ceiling
has any damage, its worth spending a few pounds to put it right. It
doesn’t have to cost much, but it really puts people off buying.
Walls
Wash down emulsioned walls with a soft cloth and a little detergent and use
match pots to touch up those damaged areas. Stick down lifting edges of
wallpaper. You can crayon in scuffmarks on darker papers. If you do
redecorate to sell then use neutral light colours like cream, pale yellow
and white woodwork. It’s a winner every time.
Floors
Viewers watch and feel what’s under their
feet. Carpets are seen as a large outlay for the new homeowner and that
could cost you the sale. Carpets can also hold unpleasant odours so make the
most of what you have by getting the carpets cleaned. If they are wearing
thin, pull them up. Bare floorboards and a rug can be a cost-effective
alternative.
Surf stoppers
With the growing enthusiasm for buyers to use
the internet to find property, photos are more important than ever. Buyers
use external and internal photos to narrow down their choices. Not just to
find a property to view, but to eliminate property from the selection.
Before your buyers even get to your door, your home may be eliminated from
their search.
The room needs to be staged for the shot to ensure you get the best photos
published. Be selective and only publish the best shots with the best
lighting. Get internal shots taken in daylight, otherwise the windows can
look like big black boxes.
Costs of moving home
Property price
Land registry fee
Stamp duty
Local searches
Other searches
Solicitor's conveyancing fee
Mortgage indemnity guarantee
Lender's valuation fee
Home buyer report / full survey
Specialist reports eg. Roof, drains
Lender's arrangement fee
Mortgage broker's fee
Insurance premiums
Removal contractor / van hire
Disconnecting services
Reconnecting services
Carpet laying, new floors
Kennel fees
Mail redirection
Change of address cards & postage
Tips
for self building and renovators
The vagaries of the UK property market
mean that few experts are willing to stick their neck out and suggest, in
percentage terms, which home improvements create the most value at resale time.
However, some suggestions for the potential returns of various features as
follows:
High return
- Updating
the kitchen
- Updating
the bathroom
- Redecorating
throughout
- Installing
central heating
- Replacing
the carpets
- Landscaping
or tidying an overgrown garden
- Providing
off-street parking or a garage
- Adding
a bedroom in a sympathetic style
Medium return
- Adding
a ground floor extension
- Adding
a conservatory
- Loft
conversions
Low return
- Outdoor
swimming pool
- Ground-floor
bathrooms
- Double-glazing
- Cavity
wall insulation
Negative return
- Extensions
that occupy the whole garden
- Stone
cladding (on most properties)
- Double-glazing
on period properties
- Removal
of period features (e.g. fireplaces, decorative plasterwork, etc)
Set
your budgets
For most people, building their
own homes means commissioning architects, builders and other sub-contractors. It
also relies on private finance – a mixture of cash and mortgage. Before
falling in love with a potential project, have a definite budget in mind, then
add 10 per cent as contingency. Establish just how much of your own money you
can put into the project. Work out how much it is going to cost during the
building process. Find out from mortgage providers what they are prepared to
offer self-builders and renovators.
Finding
a plot or project
Prices very enormously. If you
decide that you want to live in a particular area, it pays to do some legwork.
Sign up with us for details, and maybe put an advert in the local store or
newspaper.
The
design
Building for yourself requires
passion, time, energy, as well as good management skills and huge amounts of
forward planning. The best and cheapest buildings are those that take years to
plan and only months to build. The early stages of the project are crucial
because at this point the architect translates dreams into elevations and the
planners have their say.
Planning
permission
To get planning permission,
your design needs to fit into the landscape and local building pattern. You may
need to do some persuading. It can be a good idea to take photographs of the
neighbourhood to show the local styles to support your case. It may be worth
contacting a planning consultant if you want to build in a particularly
sensitive area. This service can be well worth the money as they will usually be
able to give quite clear guidelines of what the local planning authorities are
likely to consider.
Material
matter
Having the opportunity to
specify the materials and the aesthetics of a building is tremendously
appealing, but the choice can be daunting. Your architect should advise you, and
the planners will have their say, but you will have to decide which roof tiles,
floor coverings, window frames, etc you want for your house. Look into the cost,
quality and availability of materials, and how easy or problematic they are to
work with.
Getting
quotes
It can be a good idea to employ
a quantity surveyor to price the building work required. Three quotes are
standard for each piece of sub-contracted work.
These can be compared to the surveyor’s estimate. Study these
carefully, don’t necessarily go for the cheapest, and find out how long each
contractor is likely to be on site.
Working
with sub-contractors
Treat them with respect, after
all, these are the people that will make your dream a reality. Set out a plan of
works and be prepared to be flexible. There will be problems.
Quality
control
Be on site as much as you can,
even if you have appointed an architect or builder as project manager. This
keeps the communication flowing and ensures that decisions are made without
costly delays.
Estimated cost of renovating an empty
house
Replace
kitchen
£2,000
Central heating /
plumbing
£4,000
Double glazed windows &
doors
£3,000
Rewire
electrics
£2,500
Redecoration
£2,000
New roof
cover
£3,500
Repair roofing and
gutters
£700
Replaster one
room
£1,100
Roof and cavity wall
insulation
£1,800
Damp proof course replacement and internal
plastering
£1,500
General
repairs
£2,300
Professional
fees
£4,300
Total
£28,700
The UK’s top fifty house names
- The
Cottage
- Rose
Cottage
- The
Bungalow
- The
Coach House
- Orchard
House
- The
Lodge
- Woodlands
- The
Old School House
- Ivy
Cottage
- The
Willows
- The
Barn
- The
Old Rectory
- Hillside
- Hillcrest
- The
Croft
- The
Old Vicarage
- Sunnyside
- Orchard
Cottage
- Yew
Tree Cottage
- The
Laurels
- The
Old Post Office
- The
Gables
- The
Hollies
- The
Beeches
- The
Firs
- Woodside
- Meadow
View
- The
Stables
- The
White House
- Holly
Cottage
- Willow
Cottage
- Highfield
- The
Haven
- Springfield
- Fairview
- White
Cottage
- Mill
House
- The
Orchard
- Treetops
- Primrose
Cottage
- The
Granary
- The
Nook
- Corner
Cottage
- School
House
- Greenacres
- The
Old School
- Honeysuckle
Cottage
- Lilac
Cottage
- Wayside
- Oaklands
A period home of your dreams
If you're planning a move to the country and have
the flexibility of picking your type of property, do you go for mellow timbers
of Tudor? The decorative detail of Georgian perhaps? Maybe the solidity and
modern conveniences of Victorian? Or why not the traditional methods and styles
of Edwardian?
Each period has a certain style that will appeal
to us over others, so read our guide to help you narrow the search for your
dream home.
Tudor (1485-1603)
Characterised by their classic black and white
woodwork, Tudor buildings are the earliest to survive in any significant
quantity as dwellings.
Pros :
Chocolate-box charm. Cosy, quirky interiors.
Plenty of mellow timbers. Small windows and timber construction retain heat in
winter.
Cons :
Small windows and ubiquitous woodwork can make
interiors appear gloomy. Rooms tend to be on the small side and haphazardly laid
out. There is often no corridor to speak of upstairs - bedrooms lead from one to
another. Bathrooms have to be cunningly inserted. Tall occupants risk regular
knocks on low beams and doorways.
Georgian (1714-1820)
Probably the most sought-after of all country
properties, the Georgian period boost elegant exteriors with spacious rooms and
high ceilings.
Pros :
Unrivaled elegance. Rational layout. Fine
fittings and decorative detail.
Cons :
Modern lack of servants to run the house. Large
windows and doors to lose heat.
Victorian (1837-1901)
Following on from the grace of the Georgian
period, Victorian architecture followed, bringing quality workmanship,
family-oriented design, with a delightful excess of materials.
Pros :
Solidly built. A great range of styles and sizes.
Modern conveniences in a period setting. Well proportioned.
Cons :
Architecturally awkward, according to some
peoples' taste. Rigidly compartmentalised between 'upstairs' and 'downstairs'.
Often high-maintenance, with numerous individual offices and external
decoration.
Edwardian (1901-1910)
Designed with all the mod cons, Edwardian houses
are considered by many to be the ideal dwelling, displaying quality workmanship
with modern conveniences.
Pros :
Planned with modern conveniences in mind.
High-quality construction. Delightful detailing. Use of traditional methods and
styles.
Cons :
Kitchens tend to be on the small side.
Chancel repair liability
Home owners and prospective buyers across Yorkshire are
being warned to look again at their property's title deeds to avoid receiving
costly repair bills from the local church.
It is estimated that there are more than 3.5 million acres
of church land across the UK, impacting on over 5200 parishes.
Much of this land is now the location for homes, gardens,
schools and businesses, with many owners being blissfully unaware of their
responsibilities to fund church repairs, until they are landed with a hefty
bill.
Under a medieval law the rector of a parish was
responsible for the repair of the church chancel (the alter end). When, in later
years the rectorial land was sold off, the liability for repair passed
automatically to the subsequent land owners and so on, right through to the
modern day.
Often this chancel repair liability was not recorded in
the property's deeds and there is still no central register, be it National
Archives or other similar databases, that identifies which properties are
subject to the charge.
This means that buyers, be they private or commercial,
could well be purchasing, or already operating in, a liable property without
knowing it. For the next six years, buyers will continue to be kept in the dark,
as the right to claim for chancel repair liability does not have to be
registered against the title of the property in order to make it relevant. So,
regardless of whether or not they are aware of their responsibilities, owners
will have to fund the "proper repair".
From October 12 2013, this will no longer be the case, and
any purchaser who buys a property without notice on the title will not be
eligible to contribute, However, current owners and those who purchase property
between 2007 and 2013 will remain liable.
The dangers of purchasing or inheriting a house with
Chancel repair liability was highlighted recently in the House of Lords case of
Mr and Mrs Wallbank, which found them liable for a repair bill in the region of
£190,000 plus any VAT payable together with legal costs estimated to be in
excess of £400,000 after they successful contested their parish obligations.
The couple are now saddled with an enormous debt and are unable to sell their
property, the church have even refused to accept it as payment of the debt owed.
There are surveys we can commission to define if a
property may be liable and this, coupled with indemnity insurance, can go some
way to safeguarding your investment.
What you can and can't do with listed
buildings
You must get listed building consent from your local
council if you want to alter a listed building in any way that would affect its
character inside or out. This can include removing fireplaces, painting over
brickwork, stripping off plaster, removing beams or panelling or removing
internal walls and making new doorways.
All sorts of things get listed, not just smart houses.
Take Hovingham, for example, near Malton. Not only is its 18th Century stately
home listed, but many of the village's smaller cottages are protected too. On
top of that, the church, pigeoncote, primary school, cow byre, barn, drinking
fountain, bridge and telephone box are also listed.
When a building is listed, it affects both the inside and
outside of that building, together with any sheds, barns, outhouses, walls or
other structures that were built before July 1, 1948.
It's true that the older and rarer a building is, the more
likely it is to be listed. That doesn't mean to say that newer buildings can't
be protected too.
Carrying out unauthorised changes to a, listed building is
a criminal offence, punishable by a large fine or a prison sentence. The local
council will also make you pay for it to be put right.
Twenty things you can do without planning
permission
There is a huge range of new buildings,
alterations and extensions that can be built without needing anything but
building regulations consent.
This is known as 'Permitted Development' and is
probably the most useful piece of planning jargon to understand. You should make
sure that you know what you can and cannot do. There are loopholes that will
allow you to maximise the opportunities available.
Please bear in mind that the freedoms you have do
not apply to listed buildings and are restricted in some areas. Some of these
freedoms can also be removed by conditions placed on existing approvals but in
most cases there are lots of improvements that can be made without needing
planning.
1. Windows & doors
It is a surprise to most people when they realise
that no permission is needed to create new windows or doors in an existing
house. Regardless of whether a new first or ground floor window might cause
overlooking or be objected to, it does not need permission. This creates endless
possibilities to take advantage of existing views, improve the outlook and feel
of existing rooms and to entirely rearrange the way a house is used and laid out
internally. So if an existing house doesn't suit or an approved house plan could
be improved, there is plenty of potential scope in changing the windows and door
positions.
2. Attached buildings
Existing non-habitable parts of a house, such as
integral garages, outhouses and other attached buildings, can be converted into
part of a house without permission. There are plenty of 1960s houses built with
integral garages which can be massively improved by incorporating this space
into the ground floor. There are numerous Victorian houses with attached
outbuildings to the rear to which the same applies.
3. Loft conversions
Utilising an existing roof space to create
additional rooms does not require permission. Loft space takes up a large unused
percentage of most houses and converting it is an efficient and cost-effective
way of transforming a house. The necessary staircase and other internal changes
can all be done without the need to consult with the planners. This applies
equally to new houses as to existing ones. So bear this in mind when looking at
an approved design for a new house on an existing plot - could it be improved by
creating a third storey?
4. Single storey extensions and conservatories
Provided a house has not been extended before -
or since 1947 if it was built before that date - it can be enlarged by a total
of 15 per cent of its volume or 70m3. This additional space includes roof
extensions. For very large houses the 15 per cent may be larger than this 70m3
and the maximum is then 115m3. At single storey level a pitched roof should not
be higher than four metres to the ridge, or three metres for a flat roof. Such
extensions should bring the house no closer to an existing road than it is at
present (unless it would be further than 20 metres away from the boundary of the
property). 70m3 is a pretty big extension - about the size of a large single
garage - and by using your Permitted Development Rights in this way you can make
big improvements.
5. Two storey extensions
It is possible to use the 15 per cent permitted
increase in volume to create a two-storey extension, provided the roof height is
no higher than the existing house and, if within two metres of the boundary, it
should not exceed four metres. This means that, provided the boundary is not too
close, it's possible to build above a single storey garage or annexe to create
new bedrooms or bathrooms without needing planning permission.
6. Roof extensions
If rooflights cannot give you enough light, or
you need additional roof height to insert a staircase or to make more useable
space, it is possible to build dormer windows and extend the size of the roof
without permission. The maximum permitted size of such roof extensions is 50
cubic metres (40m3 for terraced houses). This additional space can only be used
to enlarge a property until the maximum is reached and once used up any further
additions will need permission. This principle also applies to other sorts of
additions.
7. Outbuildings
The construction and use of detached buildings in
the garden of a house offers huge possibilities for the creation of additional
space. Although the right to build outbuildings is restricted in Conservation
Areas and AONB it is not restricted in green belt areas and offers real
potential to make otherwise very restricted plots much more useful. There is no
actual limit to the floor-space you can create with outbuildings in the garden.
This is provided that they do not cover more than half the garden area or exceed
four metres in height with a pitched roof or three metres with a flat roof. The
uses that they can be put to are very wide and limited only in the same way as
the use of the house itself. This is provided that the house and its garden and
outbuildings are only occupied as one residence. So the best way of thinking
about outbuildings is to consider them as parts of the house - simply detached
and located in the garden. Their the uses can include a games room, study, home
office, additional lounge, workshop, laundry, guest bedrooms etc. The fact that
such outbuildings are built to residential standards, with cavity wall
insulation and so forth does not affect the need for planning permission.
Provided such outbuildings are further than five metres from the house, not
situated between the house and any road and do not cover more than 50 per cent
of the garden there are no limits in the area of floor space created. It's hard
to understand why more people do not take advantage of the possibilities they
offer.
8. Work from home
Planning permission is not required to run a
small business from your home, provided that the primary and predominant use of
the house remains as a dwelling. It is very difficult to make hard and fast
statements as to when running a business from home would cross the threshold and
actually need permission. This is because a lot depends on how it could affect
neighbours or change the character of the house. For example, having a small
office in an outbuilding that contains little more than a computer is very
different from running a car repair and spraying business from that same
building. The amount of noise, traffic, visitors and the existence of employees
are all highly relevant. In today's hi-tech world, many businesses can exist
invisibly within houses or in outbuildings in the garden without involving any
change of use in planning terms.
9. Integral annexe
Whether created by subdividing a house or by
building an extension with or without planning permission, it is perfectly
possible to create an integral self-contained annexe within a house. The same
comments apply as to the creation of an annexe in the garden because the issue
is about the creation of a separate dwelling. The subdivision of a house into
flats does need permission. That said, the creation of a granny annexe within a
wing of a house is possible. It may have its own kitchen, bathroom, lounge and
access and would be a very useful addition for many families who wanted to house
an elderly relative - and it should not need to be delayed or complicated by the
involvement of planning. If permission is needed for the building involved,
describing it as an extension is perfectly reasonable and accurate.
10. Swimming pools
If you would like a pond in the garden simply to
attract wildlife, or if you want a full swimming pool for summer parties,
neither need planning permission. A covered swimming pool falls within the same
restrictions as outbuildings and an open swimming pool can be as large as you
want - provided it doesn't cover more than half the total area of the garden.
11. New accesses
No permission is needed to create a new vehicular
access onto a residential property from an unclassified road. You can check the
status of a road at the local planning authority. Most roads are not classified.
It is usually easy to tell those that are as they are either 'B' roads or other
major roads that actually go somewhere. Cul-de-sacs and most minor village roads
are not classified. Having a separate and independent access will often make a
house far more attractive and desirable than having to share one. If the new
access is from your house on to an adopted road it is normally necessary to
agree the technical specification for dropping the kerb with the Highway
Authority.
12. Parking areas
The creation of hardstandings within the garden
of a house do not require permission. This could in theory include the whole
garden and it does enable off street parking and turning to be created. There
are occasions where planning permission can be refused for extensions due to
limited off street parking, even where it is possible to create additional
parking in the garden. The planners may not wish to encourage the loss of green
areas for parking. However, as permission is not needed to create the necessary
parking, this kind of reason for refusal is easy to overcome by making sure the
parking is available before making the application.
13. Minor amendments
There is also a way to modify an existing
planning approval without the need to apply for a new permission - by making a
minor amendment to the scheme. It is also important to be aware that if you want
to depart from the approved plans of a proposed house to take advantage of
permitted development, the changes will need to be agreed as minor amendments to
the approval. This is because technically you only benefit from these rights
once a house is substantially complete. It would obviously be a pretty
unreasonable approach by the council to refuse a minor amendment for something
that you can simply do anyway once the house is completed. Nonetheless, it can
save mistakes and hassle if you get the written agreement of the council before
you do it - as well as a lot of money.
14. Inside
Rearranging the interior of a house to create or
subdivide rooms using partition walls does not need planning permission.
Inserting or removing floors does not need permission. So if you are looking at
a barn conversion, it may have been designed with large areas of vertical space,
this may look good but does not always make for efficient use of the building's
space and may not always be practical. Inserting new floors to create the
additional rooms does not need planning permission.
15. Rooflights
The insertion of rooflights in any existing roof
does not require permission. So a roof conversion becomes a real possibility
even if the space is quite limited; the fire escape necessary for building
relations can sometimes be created through an enlarged rooflight. Existing
single storey ground floor rooms like kitchens and living rooms can be made much
lighter and more airy by opening up the ceiling to expose the roof and the
insertion of rooflights.
16. Detached annexes
It is not possible to use outbuildings to create
new independent dwellings - this would be to establish separate building plots
needing planning permission. However, this does not prevent the use of existing
outbuildings for additional accommodation provided it is used in a close
association with - and not independently of - the main house. If an outbuilding
is used to house an elderly relative, with their own kitchen and bathroom,
provided they are genuinely dependent on the occupants of the main house and
spend time within the main house, planning permission should not be required.
There are obviously grey areas involved and it does to some extent depend on the
behaviour and nature of the occupant of the annexe as much as the size and
separation of that building from the house. So, whilst the use of a detached
outbuilding to house an 85 year old disabled dependant relative would not need
planning permission, to rent that building to an unrelated 18 year old student
with their own car and separate life would. For peace of mind, residential uses
of this kind should be formally agreed with the planning department as not
needing permission.
17. Additional land
Permission is needed to change agricultural land
into garden land and this can be difficult to achieve. But opportunities still
continue to arise in rural areas where farmers are happy to sell bits of land to
homeowners. Planning permission may be difficult to achieve to extend a garden
because of concerns about the erosion of the countryside and the creation of new
building plots through incremental growth. There is, however, nothing to prevent
you from owning a parcel of agricultural land adjacent to your property. The
issue then becomes what you're actually able to do with it. The answer is pretty
much anything agricultural as long as it is not used as a garden. So
agricultural activities such as growing vegetables and planting trees are
acceptable, but planting flowers, mowing the lawn and playing tennis are not.
Retaining a physical barrier such as a fence or hedge between your approved
garden and additional land is a good way of demonstrating that you have not
incorporated it into your curtilage. Of course you can still benefit from owning
the additional land as it protects your view, prevents anyone else building on
it, and you can use it to grow vegetables or plant trees for fruit.
18. Two houses into one
Although creating two houses on a plot or
subdividing a house into flats requires planning permission, the reverse
situation does not. To combine a pair of semi-detached houses into one detached
house does not need planning permission. This can be very helpful in some areas
where large houses are in short supply. Current planning policies are seeking to
maximise densities on land in urban areas and large plots can be difficult to
achieve in these circumstances. Combining two approved dwellings into one can be
a solution - although be aware that to revert back two dwellings would require
permission.
19. Gates, walls and fences
The look of a house and the privacy you enjoy can
be radically affected by the walls and fences that surround it. Walls and fences
generally do not need permission on the boundary provided they are no more than
2 metres in height, or no more than one metre where they are adjacent to a road.
Within a garden, which could in theory be one inch in from the boundary, it is
OK to construct walls or fences or other means of enclosure up to three metres
high. This is provided that no more than half the garden is so enclosed. This
means that, provided the garden is big enough, you can have a tennis court with
three metre high fencing or you can create three metre high screening from
neighbours. It is important to remember that where you are simply replacing an
existing fence or wall, regardless of its height, permission will not be needed.
20. Cladding and tile hanging
Outside conservation areas, permission is not
needed to clad, hang tiles on or render a house. Any of these methods can be an
effective way of integrating an extension with existing property or upgrading
the appearance of an entire house that has been badly extended in the past. So
if you are considering a major renovation opportunity bear this in mind. If you
want to reposition windows and doors, extend it at ground or first floor level
and convert the roof, all these modifications can be integrated into an overall
design by completely changing the appearance of the house through painting,
cladding or rendering.
Asbestos in the home - what you need to know
Asbestos is a term that covers a range of naturally
occurring fibrous minerals. That means, quite literally, that it is rock that
can be spun and woven into fire resistant yarns and fabrics. It can also be used
to reinforce cement, plastics and other materials.
In the home it can turn up in a wide variety of forms and
locations. These include: in ceiling cavities and interior walls as a thermal or
acoustic insulator, either loose or packed in paper "Jiffy " bags; as
lagging on boilers and pipes, often mixed with plaster; in backing paper for
vinyl flooring; mixed with concrete in roof streets, ceiling tiles and wall
cladding, as well as forming partition walls; and in textured coatings, such as
Artex. It can also lurk in soffit boards, water tanks, and even guttering and
drainpipes.
As to exactly which homes are likely to contain these
items, the peak use for asbestos in new homes was in the fifties and sixties,
but expect to see it in any property constructed up to 1990. It's also very
common for it to turn up in older properties that have been renovated in this
time. In particular, houses converted into flats often have asbestos panels used
in new kitchens and inside fire doors - or even simply tacked to the outside of
ordinary internal doors.
There are three main forms that have been in common use:
crocidolite (blue asbestos), amosite (brown asbestos) and chrysotile (white
asbestos). Blue and brown asbestos are the more dangerous forms and were largely
used industrially and in commercial properties, such as lagging in plant rooms.
Chrysotile accounts for almost all the asbestos found in homes, and while it is
considered less toxic that blue or brown, it is still considered a category 1
carcinogen.
Expert opinion states that asbestos presents a particular
danger to health when its fibres are inhaled at high levels over a long period.
This can result in asbestosis (irreversible lung scarring), lung cancer and
mesothelioma. The latter is a cancer of the lining of the chest or abdominal
wall, which may not manifest until fifty years or more after exposure, and is
always fatal.
The good new is that, according to HSE, asbestos exposure
in the home is almost always of too low a level to cause any harm. That's
assuming, however, that the asbestos is left undisturbed,
When asbestos-containing materials become disturbed, such
as through drilling, sawing or removal, this can present a health hazard, as
fibres will be released into the air. Similarly, if the matrix holding the
asbestos starts to break down, as can happen with concrete panels, fibres can be
released.
There is no obligation for a vendor to detect or disclose
the presence of asbestos in their home. A surveyor is very unlikely to say
definitively if asbestos is present or not, but they will flag up anything that
may well contain the substance. An experienced, well trained asbestos surveyor
can usually say during an inspection is a material can be presumed to contain
it.
If removal is recommended, it may be possible for the
homeowner to do this himself. That is, as long as the material comprises a low
risk asbestos product, such as cement roof sheets and guttering, or vinyl floor
tiles in good condition.
In these instances, the items can be removed carefully,
wrapped up and taken away without putting more than a minimal amount of fibres
in the air. Where this is not the case, perhaps because the material cannot be
removed without being damaged, then a licensed asbestos removal contractor
should definitely be used.
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